Rajasthani nights, delhi dawn

As we jumped into our last autorickshaw in Jaipur, the driver turned to us and said: 'Rajasthani special music?' Sure. So as he turned up the volume on his gaffer-taped-in speakers, we sat back and let the melodic vocals and drum and bass beats carry us through the streets of Jaipur. Looking out we passed the guy we saw every night cooking his last chapatis on an open fire, the same people settling down for another night on the central reservation, the motorbikes with women and children piled on the back weaving their way back to their homes, the children still out chasing rickshaws for rupees and it dawned on us that this place has been an emotional rollercoaster which we still haven't unpacked for ourselves. At every turn it has been wonderful and heartbreaking, confusing and life affirming. We've challenged our own thinking and recognised things about ourselves that we like and are not sure about. We've wondered whether our decisions have been right about the choices we have made while we've been here. But as the driver waved his arms in the air and we hummed along to the Rajasthani beats we knew one thing - we've loved every exhilarating, challenging, frustrating minute of it.

Back in Delhi, at the sanctuary that is Narinder and Shan's great home. They have really looked after us and recognised that a cup of tea, a jacket potato and a dip in the pool were just what we needed before we set off on our next adventure...

Nepal